5.19 - LECTURE ON PALESTINE

LECTURE ON PALESTINE My brethren and friends, I am especially glad to be greeted by your presence at the last of this series of lectures. You have lent inspiration to me while I have tried to retrace the steps of my recent trip and mention to you some of the things observed. I left you last night at the city of Kantara on the Suez Canal. Let us now board the train and travel north and east up the coast of the Mediterranean, by the way of Gaza, and Lydda, and on to Jerusalem, where headquarters will be made at the Grand New Hotel. I recognize the difficulty in presenting the geography of any country without the aid of either map or picture, but, with your patience, I shall do my best. The Promised Land, in the fullest sense, embraced that territory between the "Entrance at Hamath" on the north to the river of Egypt and Mount Hor on the south, and from the Mediterranean on the west to the Euphrates on the east. This included a vast section of country which was never occupied by the children of Israel except a brief time under David and Solomon. That land wherein they dwelt, and which is properly called the Holy Land, extended from Dan to Beer-sheba and from the Mediterranean on the west to the great Syrian Desert on the east. It lies between latitudes thirty-one and one-half degrees to thirty-three and one-half degrees north and from north to south is about one hundred forty miles, while from west to east it is about seventy-five miles. Palestine proper embraces only that part of the country west of the river Jordan and a narrow strip on the east, loosely called Gilead. It contains only about sixty-five hundred square miles. This land has six natural or physical divisions, and, to a student, each demands special mention and description. Let us imagine ourselves standing on the southern border and fancy the whole of Palestine spread out before us. The first division to our bit is the Maritime Plain. This lies along the coast of the Mediterranean for the entire length of the country, and is broken only by Mount Carmel, north of which it is quite narrow. South of Mount Carmel, it varies in width from about four to sixteen miles, and is ninety miles long. It has two main divisions—viz., the Plain of Sharon stretching from Mount Carmel south a distance of fifty miles, and then, still farther south, is the Plain of the Philistines, about forty miles in length. The whole has an undulating surface, of low hillocks of sandy soil, from one hundred to two hundred feet above the sea level, and very fertile. The cities of Joppa and Lydda, and the five principal ones of Philistia—viz., Gaza, Ashkelon, Ashdod, Ekron, and Gath He in this maritime plain. The second division of the country is called the Shefelah or the foothills. These extend along the east margin of the plain, and form a terrace about five hundred feet above the sea level. Passing on eastward, we reach the third division known as the mountain section or backbone of the land. In the extreme south there appears the Negeb or "South Country." This is a gradual slope from the Arabian Desert and consists of a series of hills south of Hebron. North of here sets in the "Hill Country" of Judea and Samaria with an elevation of about twenty-five hundred feet. The highest point in Palestine is three miles north of Hebron and is three thousand two hundred twenty-five feet. Bethlehem is two thousand nine hundred feet, Jerusalem is twenty-five hundred feet, and north of here is a gentle decline until you reach Mount Gerazim and Mount Ebal, which tower almost three thousand feet above the Mediterranean. The mountains in Galilee are about eighteen hundred feet high. They increase toward the north until the country of Syria is entered. The fourth physical feature is the Plain of Esdraelon or Jezreel, Lying between Samaria and Galilee. This is triangular in shape and stretches from Mount Carmel to the southeast about twenty-five miles to Engannim or Jenin; thence it runs by Mount Gilboa northwest of Mount Tabor, about fourteen miles; and from there back to Mount Carmel, a distance of six-teen miles. This is one of the richest plains in all the world. It is watered by the river Kishon. The next division is the valley of the Jordan. This is a great depression from the foot of Mount Hermon, southward to the Dead Sea. The valley at the north is narrow, but down about the Sea of Galilee it widens to a distance of from two to eight miles, and at the ruins of old Jericho, it is about fourteen miles wide. The eastern tableland is a lofty plateau east of the Jordan. The mountains here rise higher than those on the west, and from their summits a plain stretches away toward the great Syrian desert. Thus have I gone over the physical features of the land, and I hope you may have in mind a fair picture of this most wonderful and sacred country. The climate of Palestine is about like that of our own Southern Dixie land. A line running west from Jerusalem would go through Savannah, Georgia; Montgomery, Alabama; Jackson, Mississippi; and on to San Diego, California. The average temperature is seventy-six degrees. It has but two seasons— viz., a wet, lasting from November to April, and a dry, from April to November. The annual rainfall is about forty-eight inches. The principal trees observed are the Syrian oak, the sycamore, and the carob tree, from which a large pod or bean grows. These were fed to the swine and on them the prodigal son was feasting when he first came to himself. The country abounds in olive trees, which grow on the hillsides, in the valleys, and upon the plains. Luxuriant grapes, figs, pomegranates, etc., are seen most everywhere, while oranges, lemons, and bananas flourish around Joppa and in the plain of Jericho. The camel, ass, and ox are the main beasts of burden. Occasionally you see a horse or a mule doing service. The sheep are of the Syrian type and are characterized by their exceeding large tails. The goats must be direct descendants of the kind owned by Jacob. They are black, spotted, and striped. But few wild animals now are found. Most excellent roads have been built over the main parts of this country. From Hebron on the south, a splendid highway leads north through the mountain region via Bethlehem, Jerusalem, Bethel, Schechem, Jenin, Nazareth, Tiberias, and on to Damascus. Another leads from here on over the Anti-Lebanon and Lebanon Mountains to Beyrout; thence down the Mediterranean to Haifa or Mount Carmel, and back east to Nazareth. There is also a fine road from Joppa east by the way of Jerusalem to the Dead Sea, Jericho, and the Jordan valley. A railroad runs from Kantara on the Suez Canal to old Lydda, and on north to Haifa, thence to Tiberias. Another goes to Damascus. From Lydda a branch line runs south and east and terminates at Jerusalem. A modern automobile can be found in most any town and hence travel is easy and rapid. The general characteristics are before you and I now want you to go with me and retrace the ground over which I passed. Jerusalem is our first study. I pause a moment to review its history because the history of Jerusalem is the history of Palestine and its people. The first mention of the city is in connection with the story of Melchisedek, who was king of Salem. It was afterwards known as Jerusalem because inhabited by the old Jebusites. In about 1045 B.C. it was occupied by David, the b was changed to r and hence the present name "Jerusalem." The city was rebuilt by David and became the capital of the land. It was beautified by Solomon, and during his reign was the most attractive spot on earth. From the death of Solomon, its history was varied according to the character of the king in power. In 587 B.C. Jerusalem was destroyed by Nebuchadnezzar, the temple was torn down, and the best of the people carried to Babylon. Palestine was therefore under this eastern monarchy until 536, when it passed under the control of the Medo-Persian government. In 330 Alexander the Great gained dominion over all the world and Palestine became subject to the southern division of his government. Under old Antiochus Epiphanes, in 174 B.C., the Maccabean princes rebelled and carried on war for their independence for more than one hundred years, when at last, Jerusalem passed under the control of the city of Rome. Again the Jews rebelled in the year A.D. 65, and their temple, rebuilt first by Zerubbabel and Ezra, and later enlarged by Herod the Great, together with all the city, was destroyed by Titus in the year A.D. 70. Under the emperor Hadrian, a temple, dedicated to Jupiter, was built on the very spot where once stood the Solomonic. He changed the name of Jerusalem to Aelia Capitolina. During the reign of Constantine the old name was restored and believers in Christ held possession until 637, when old Caliph Omar entered the city and made it surrender to Mohammedan authority. Thus it continued unmolested until 1099, when the crusaders made seven unsuccessful attempts to gain and hold Jerusalem as their own. In 1517 Palestine passed under the control of the Ottomans and so remained until during the World War, when General Allenby entered and took possession for the United Kingdom. That country is, therefore, today under the protectorate of Great Britain. Jerusalem is situated on four hills. On the south and west is Mount Zion and just north is the hill of Acra. Passing over a valley, there is Mount Moriah on the south and east and Bezetha to the north. It stands in north latitude thirtyone degrees, forty-six minutes, forty-five seconds, and longitude thirty-five degrees, thirteen minutes, twenty-five seconds. The general elevation is about twenty-five hundred feet above the sea level. I next call attention to some important valleys. Let us imagine ourselves standing west of the city about a mile. We are at the head of the valley of Hinnom. It runs east until it gets within about one hundred yards of the Joppa gate. It then turns south and east again around the south wall of the city and passes on to the southeast. Now just north of the city another valley starts and runs south. It enters the wall at the Damascus gate, and passes between the hills of the city joining the Hinnom or Gishon at the southeast. This is the Tyropeon valley. Starting again, a little farther north of the city, a valley leads toward the east, and then curves around the northeast part of the wall; thence turns south and joins the other two at En Rogel in the southeast. These form a large valley leading on toward the Jordan. Thus Jerusalem is situated upon the hills and surrounded by valleys. It, therefore, has a natural defense against the enemy. This city is surrounded also by a rock wall about nine feet thick and, on an average, about forty feet high. It is two and one-half miles around. There are four or five principal gates—viz., Joppa on the west; Damascus and Herod’s on the north; St. Stephen’s and the Beautiful (now closed) on the east; and the Dung gate and David’s on the south and southwest. The two main streets of the city are David and Temple running through the city from west to east, and Damascus from north to south. These divide the city into four quarters as follows: The Armenians occupy the southwest; the Catholics and other believers in Christ, the northwest; the Jews in the southeast; and the Mohammedans, the northeast. The streets can hardly be said to be paved at all; yet they are covered with stones and rocks of all sizes and shapes imbedded in the earth. They may be well described by saying they are short, narrow, crooked, dark, and filthy. They were intended only for footmen and beasts of burden, hence no vehicles are allowed to enter farther than the Grand New Hotel just east of the Joppa gate. A number of the streets are arched overhead and have somewhat the appearance of a gloomy tunnel. They are so narrow that when a caravan of loaded camels are passing, one man must go in advance and prepare the way. In the shops along the way, the merchant usually sits on the floor, from which place he can reach most of his goods. The prices vary for all articles according to the buyer and his knowledge. Among the articles carried are: assortments of spices, incense, gum, sacred relics in ivory, pearl and olivewood, besides pictures of saints, angels, and devils. There are many places of interest within the city, but only a few will I mention, lest too much time is here consumed. Just inside the Joppa gate stands the Tower of David. This is a group of five towers from which observations may be made and within which there is reasonable safety. A moat, about thirty feet wide, serves as a defense to these towers. Just south of this tower, also on Mount Zion, is the chapel of St. James, because here is the traditional place of his beheading and of Peter’s imprisonment. On farther south, just outside the wall, is the palace of old Caiphas and the upper room in which the last supper was prepared. The old building answers every demand of the Scriptures, and as you enter, a strange and sacred feeling comes through your soul. The palace of Governor Pilate, his judgment had, and the tower of Antonia are in the upper eastern part of the city. The ruins are visible and the evidence is not lacking to identify this spot as the original. Here the Catholics assemble every Friday afternoon at three o’clock and begin their sacred march along the street via Dolorosa to the place of the crucifixion. Brother Douthitt and I joined them and followed a procession, the most serious in all my experience. In fancy I saw the Savior condemned by Pilate and then led away. We were moving along the path in which he was forced to go. Our procession stopped at the traditional stations—fourteen in number—and finally we entered the church of the Holy Sepulcher, wherein he was crucified and buried. This church was first erected, at the command of Constantine, by his aged mother Helena, in the year 325. It was destroyed by the Persians in 614 and rebuilt sixteen years later on the original foundation. It was again destroyed in 1048 and, during the period of the crusades, was rebuilt and changed by several additions. The present structure dates from 1810, and is a collection of chapels about three hundred fifty feet long by two hundred eighty feet wide. We entered this magnificent building and turned to the right up a few steps and there beheld a stone with a socket lined with silver. Here the cross rested. About five feet on either side are the sockets for the crosses on which the thieves were crucified. From here we passed into the rotunda and under the dome of the big building and entered the sepulcher proper. This is a small structure about twentyseven feet long, sixteen feet wide, and twelve feet high. It is built of white marble and is handsomely carved and beautifully decorated. It is surmounted by a crown-shaped cupola. A number of silver candlesticks adorn the front. This has two small chambers—the first called the "chapel of the angels," and said to be the place where the angel sat after he had rolled away the stone from the door of the sepulcher. Through this we pass by a very low door and enter the real burying place of our Lord. The vault is about seven feet square. The tomb—a raised couch, covered with a slab of white marble occupies the whole of the right side. Over it hang about forty lamps of gold and silver kept constantly burning. The weekly pilgrims here come in succession, crawling on bended knees, and put their lips, forehead, and cheek on this cold marble, bathe it with their tears, and then drag themselves away backwards until the threshold is again crossed. The vault is said to be hewn out of the rock, but not a vestige of rock is now visible. The floor, tomb, and walls are of marble. From the church, we passed through narrow crooked streets and came to the west wall of the Haram, the Jews’ place of wailing. Every Friday from four-thirty to six o’clock P.M. men, women, and children of all ages, and from all nations come to weep, wail, and mourn over their fallen temple, whose very dust is dear to them, and in whose stones they take pleasure. In all my days I have never evidenced such a sight. Old men, pale, haggard, and careworn were there. Old women, young women, boys, and girls had gathered from every quarter. Some were on their knees chanting mournfully from a book of Hebrew prayers, swaying their bodies to and fro; some were prostrate on the ground, with foreheads and lips pressed to the earth; some were against the walls burying their faces in the cracks of the stones; some were kissing them and bathing them with tears that freely flowed. Nineteen centuries have passed, but their affections have not been dulled nor their national devotion deadened. They are weeping over the destruction of their temple, the falling and passing of their kings, and are begging for the return of national glory. In the southeast section of the city the temple once stood as the pride of the Jew. This was on Mount Moriah and occupied the field David once bought from Oman. It is surrounded by walls and embraces about thirty-five acres. Mount Moriah was a very long, narrow, sharp ridge, but Solomon made it level and a fit place for the greatest of all buildings. To do this he erected a number of large columns of thirteen rows and arched over their tops with masonry. He then had to fill only a few feet of earth on top. This great space underneath the southeast corner was once thought to be Solomon’s stables their true purpose being unknown. The mosque of Omar now occupies the temple site. This is an octagonal building, each side of which is sixty-seven feet. The sides are forty-six feet high, and are encased with marble, on top of which there are rich porcelain tiles. On this there is the base of the dome, also octagonal, each side of which is twenty-six feet high. Then comes the dome itself, sixty-five feet in diameter and ninety-eight feet high. From the golden crescent at the apex to the ground is, therefore, one hundred seventy feet. This mosque surrounds the sacred rock which, according to the Jews, is where Abram offered Isaac, and where the brazen altar of the temple stood. The rock is about forty-five feet long and thirty feet wide, and about six feet high. It is surrounded by a picket fence, and no one is allowed to stand upon it or do more than simply view it. Underneath is the "Noble Cave," into which you can pass and observe an opening from above and discover that a hollow space is below. In the southeast corner of the temple inclosure is the mosque El Arsa, which I pass without an effort to describe. I must leave Jerusalem and call attention to near-by places of interest. Passing east out of St. Stephen’s gate we rapidly descend the Kedron valley, cross it on a stone bridge and enter the Garden of Gethsemane, which is a small plot of ground now surrounded by a wall. A few old olive trees still stand and a guide points out the exact spot where our Savior prayed, where Peter, James, and John were heavy with sleep, and where that cowardly crowd, led by Judas, arrested him. Here we rested and reviewed the sacred scenes of bygone days. Just north of the garden and down a series of steps is the traditional burial place of Mary, the mother of Christ. From here we began our ascent of the Mount of Olives and tried to remember the various incidents connected with it.

Over this the Savior had passed so many times. It was from the summit at Bethphage that he rode into the city on the colt of an ass. From here he looked over the doomed city and wept, saying: "O Jerusalem, Jerusalem, that killeth the prophets, and stoneth them that are sent unto her! how often would I have gathered thy children together, even as a hen gathereth her chickens under her wings and ye would not! Behold, your house is left unto you desolate." From here he kissed his disciples good-by and was received out of their sight. Truly the Mount of Olives is sacred. We went on over its crest and descended upon the village of Bethany at its foot. This is a small town shut out from the rest of the world. The wilderness appears in front and the Mount of Olives rises close behind The road leading from Jerusalem to Jericho passes, and this is the way Jesus often went. Of course, we wanted to see the home of Mary, Martha, and Lazarus, and soon found ourselves amid the old ruins of a two-room building. I could see no reason why this should not be the real place. At least every purpose is here served. We next went to the tomb from which Jesus called Lazarus from the dead. We descended into the cave by twenty-six steps cut in the solid rock. There is nothing special about the tomb. It is a simple vault with rough hewn walls, and is about six feet square and six feet high. This is Bethany’s interesting spot; I thought of the story told in John 11:1-57 and the wonderful faith as expressed by Martha and Mary. The power of God’s word was here demonstrated, and Lazarus, though dead four days, heard that word and came forth. The hope of the great resurrection depends upon that same word. By it the worlds were framed; by the word of God, the tempest was stilled and the sea was calmed; by it all things are upheld; and by it all that are in their graves shall come forth. God’s word is quick and full of power, and by it we shall one day cry out: "O grave, where is thy victory, O death, where is thy sting?"

Leaving Bethany, we came back to the valley of Kedron and observed the tombs of Absalom, Zachariah, and James, and then farther down the valley the pool of Siloam. We engaged a guide and a Buick car and started early one morning to the Dead Sea, the Jordan, Gilgal, and Jericho. These places are about twenty miles from Jerusalem and the road leads via the Apostles’ Fount, the Samaritan Inn, and on down to the valley. We escaped the experience of the man who fell among thieves, and having crossed the wilderness of Judea were soon on the shore of the Dead Sea. The valley here is about eight miles wide. There are a few thorn bushes and other shrubs and the soil, of a rather soapstone nature, was covered with salt, making it appear like a white frost in our October. We had often read of the Dead Sea and now saw it from its northern shore. It is forty-seven miles long, ten miles wide, and thirteen hundred feet deep in some places. It is the lowest lying body of water in the world. It is perfectly clear, colorless, and odorless, but has a bitter taste. Its specific gravity is about one and twenty-five hundredths and the surface is therefore undisturbed by the ordinary winds. We went in bathing and found it easy to He or to sit upon its surface. The only difficulty in swimming is that your feet are opposed to staying under the water. From here we ascended the Jordan and stopped to take a boat ride on its waters, to go in bathing, and to reflect upon its sacred associations. Here D. L. Ennis, a Methodist preacher of Frostburg, Maryland, immersed Jonathan Sleeman, one of his members, also of the same town. On up the valley we went, passing the site of old Gilgal, now marked by an evergreen tree, and came to old Jericho. We stood amid the ruins and saw evidences of the walls, around which Joshua walked, and on which Rahab lived. Near by is Elisha’s Fountain, from which a good stream flows, watering a section of the valley and turning it into a beautiful garden of finest fruits. Back of Jericho is the traditional mountain, where the scene of the first temptation occurred. From Jericho we turned toward Jerusalem, crossed the brook Cherith and viewed the cave where Elijah was fed by the ravens. Time forbids a rehearsal of the many things that are associated with these historic places. Our next drive was from Jerusalem south to Hebron. This led us along the way traveled by Abraham and Lot, Jacob and his family, and later, by Joseph and Mary, and the wise men from the east. The city of David is six miles from Jerusalem and just before you enter, you observe to the right of the road the tomb of Rachel and call to mind the birth of Benjamin and Jacob’s return to Canaan. To this the Jews make annual pilgrimages and pray over the remains of this mother of Israel. From the tomb we soon enter Bethlehem. The streets are narrow and rough. The houses are low and poorly kept. Most all the population are employed in making olive wood relics, pearl beads, crosses, buckles, and almost anything a tourist might buy as a souvenir. It is a Catholic town and the cross is everywhere prominent. After visiting some of the shops, we entered the church of the nativity built by Helena in 327. It was partially destroyed by the Moslems in 1236 and rebuilt by the Crusaders. The church is in the form of a cross, and is supported by fortyeight beautiful Corinthian columns of solid granite, three feet in diameter, and seventeen feet high. The main chapel claims to be the original stable of the nativity. It is about thirty-five feet long, ten feet wide, and six feet high. The whole building is handsomely decorated according to Catholic conception and, on the marble floor, is a large star at the exact spot where Jesus was born. The manger is about five feet long, two feet wide, and ten inches deep. In this a large doll lies, representing the infant of Mary. In another room you are shown the tomb of St. Jerome, the Roman matron, Paula, and the vault into which the children slaughtered by the order of Herod were deposited. Other sacred scenes cluster around Bethlehem. Here David was born and spent his youth as a shepherd. Here he remained until called to be king over Israel. Just east of the village is the beautiful valley owned by Boaz, in which Naomi and Ruth gleaned the fields and where one of the sweetest love stories has its setting. From Bethlehem one mile south, we stopped at Solomon’s Pools, three in number. These He in a valley and are fed by perennial springs. They cover an aggregate of about six acres and average about thirty-five feet deep. The water is pumped to Jerusalem and hence that city’s principal supply. These pools are among the best authenticated remains of antiquity in the Holy Land, and are remarkable for their construction and durability, having been in use about three thousand years, and yet, with but few breaks in the wall, they are in fine condition. Solomon said: “I planted me vineyards: I made me gardens and orchards, and I planted trees in them of all kind of fruits: I made me pools of water, to water therewith the wood that bringeth forth trees." On our way south we went passing through a country rich in the production of wheat and grapes. No houses are seen for some distance. Isolated farm houses are never seen in Palestine. The people live in towns and villages, which are enclosed by stone walls. Just north of Hebron, we entered the valley of Eschol, where the Hebrew spies carried away, upon a staff between two men, a branch with one cluster of grapes. Of this land they said: "Surely it floweth with milk and honey; and this is the fruit of it." The entire country is rich, and the hillsides are terraced and covered with vineyards, olive, figs, and other kinds of fruit. We were in this section just as the grapes were getting ripe and it is not an exaggeration to say we saw many bunches from fifteen to twenty inches long. They are of the very finest flavor. Before entering Hebron, you look out to the right and observe the plain of Mamre and the great Syrian tree called Abraham’s oak. This is a stately old tree with branches stretching in every direction about forty or forty-five feet. Tradition claims it to be the original, but no one can accept that idea. It doubtless stands near the same spot where Abraham entertained his angel friends and where the divine promise was received. On entering Hebron twenty miles south of Jerusalem we were reminded that we were in one of the oldest towns in the world. It was originally called Kirjeth-Arba, then Mamre, and still later Hebron. The Arabs call it El Khulil, the friend of God. This is due to Abraham having lived here and being recognized as the friend of Jehovah. It is now a town of about ten thousand, composed of Arabs, Turks, and Jews. Scarcely a family which believes in Christ there dwells. It lies in a valley and has narrow, crooked, dirty streets. The homes are about as poor as you will find in any part of the country. The men and women dress very much alike. The women paint and tattoo their faces, eyebrows, teeth, hands, and nails of both fingers and toes. They are fond of jewelry and wear rings, bracelets, and anklets. They go barefooted, but cover their faces. The chief industry is the manufacture of coarse goods made of wool and camel’s hair, and the dressing of the skins to be used as bags for water, wine, churning, and other liquids. The most interesting place in this old city is the "cave of Machpelah," which Abraham bought from the Hittites for a burial ground. Sacred are the memories that cluster here. Abraham and Sarah had traveled together for about sixty years since they left their old home in Ur of Chaldea. Their trials had been many. Strangers in a strange land they had wandered and yet they had grown "rich in cattle, in silver, and in gold." The child of promise was now about forty years old, and, in their own land, they were peacefully dwelling when death called the mother and faithful wife to the other shore. At the age of one hundred twenty-seven, Sarah died, and Abraham wanted to bury her out of his sight, hence the purchase of this cave. Here also He the remains of Abraham, Isaac and Rebekah, Jacob and Leah. The cave is surrounded by a Mohammedan harem, one hundred twelve feet by one hundred ninety-eight feet, erected in the name of God, yet its keepers rejected the Christ and accept Mohammed, the impostor, in his stead. The mosque is about seventy-five feet long and fifty feet wide. It is reached by a broad stone stairway, going up a gentle incline. Christians and Jews may go only to the entrance. What a shame that those places most sacred to the followers of Christ are kept and guarded by the enemies of our Christian religion! We longed to gaze upon the tombs of the old patriarchs, but the Moslem forbids. Hebron is also to be remembered from the fact that here Abraham looked toward the east and saw the smoke rise from Sodom and Gomorrah at the time of their destruction. Here Isaac died at the age of one hundred eighty. From here Joseph was sent to visit his brethren in Shechem, sixty miles north. From here Jacob sent his sons into Egypt to buy corn. Here David reigned over Judah seven and one-half years. Many other things here occurred, but I must leave and return to Jerusalem for a visit to other sections. With ample arrangements made, we left the capital and started north on an extended journey. We had a good Buick car, a fine driver, and an experienced guide, Mr. A. M. Shammas. Our first stop was at old Nob, whose history I pass. We then came to Bethel and finally on to Shechem, a distance of forty miles from Jerusalem. Our trip was along the backbone of the mountains, and beautiful valleys covered in grapes, olives, and figs met our vision on every side. Many small villages He along the road and scenes both sacred and interesting are observed. Just before Shechem is reached we come to old Mount Gerazim and Mount Ebal, east of which lies the beautiful valley which Jacob "bought of the sons of Hamor the father of Shechem for an hundred pieces of silver: and it became the inheritance of the children of Joseph." Here we stopped and found fifteen or sixteen flocks of sheep and goats. We asked our guide to have the shepherds come together and thoroughly mix their flocks and then each lead off in verification of our Savior’s statement in John 10. This was done to our complete satisfaction. Jacob’s well is here, and to it we went. A Catholic chapel now covers it and, of course, a fee must be paid to enjoy the privilege of seeing it. This old well is still covered by a stone about five feet long, three feet wide, and two feet high. Upon this stone I was glad to sit and think of Jesus who one time, tired and weary, here sat. The well is one hundred feet deep and, after a few feet from the top, it is about nine feet in diameter. An old-fashioned windlass and bucket is used. We drank of its waters and then lowered some candles to view it from top to bottom. I only mention the fact that here Jesus taught the woman of Samaria regarding the living water and the true worship of God. Just about four hundred yards to the north, at the foot of Mount Ebal, is Joseph’s tomb. According to a pledge, taken from his brethren in Egypt, his bones were brought and here buried. At Shechem, now Nablus, we saw an old, old scroll of the Decalogue and a few other ancient scenes. Our next stop was at Jenin. This is the last village of Samaria, and we now enter the beautiful and historic valley or plain of Esdraelon already described. This is, perhaps, the greatest battleground in a]] the world. The armies from the north observed the invading hosts from Mount Tabor, while those from the south could behold the enemy from Mount Gilboa. It was here that the forces of Deborah and Barak met the armies of Jabin, under Sisera, and defeated them. "They fought from heaven; the stars in their courses fought against Sisera." A tremendous storm of rain, hail, and thunder from the east burst upon the battlefield. The plain became a marsh; the Kishon rose rapidly and that ancient river swept the enemy away. It was here that Josiah, king of Judah, opposed PharaohNecho, who was marching against Assyria. He warned Josiah in a friendly way, saying: "What have I to do with thee, thou king of Judah? I come not against thee this day, but against the house wherewith I have war; for God commanded me to make haste: forbear thee from meddling with God, who is with me, that he destroy thee not." Josiah neglected the warning and rushed into battle. An archer gave him the fatal blow, and thus the good king of Judah fell, the only one that ever died in battle. Leading off toward the east from this plain is the scene of Gideon’s victory over the Midianites. The vineyard of Naboth and the story of Ahab and Jezebel are here brought to mind. On Mount Gilboa, Saul, his three sons and armor-bearer fell. Such are some of the things of interest that here transpired. In this plain and at the foot of the mountains are the villages of Endor, where Saul had an interview with the witch; Nain, where the widow’s son was raised; Shunem, where the woman whose son was also raised dwelt. This plain is crossed and we enter the hills of Galilee with Nazareth, built upon the mountainside in full view. We lunched at the Hotel Galilee, and, of course, visited the old home of Mary and Joseph, the carpenter’s shop, and the virgin’s fount. On we passed by Cana, where the first miracle was wrought, by Kurin Hattin, the mount on which the great sermon was preached, the plain wherein the multitude was fed, and came down to Tiberias on the west shore of the Sea of Galilee. Here we spent the night at a hotel, kept by a German widow. After a good dinner, we walked down to the water and watched the women carrying their night’s supply. This they do with bottles and jars after the original custom. We entered a small boat and rode out upon those waters made sacred by our Lord. The moon was high in the heavens, and it was a fine time for reflections. I thought of the call of the disciples, the walking upon the waters, the draught of fishes, and the many parables, and miracles here spoken and performed. The night there spent will not be forgotten. From here we went on our journey to old Damascus. This led us by the ruins of Chorazim, Bethsaida, and Capernaum, and on up the valley to the waters of Merom, just below which we crossed the Jordan. We had beheld this historic stream at four different points and now I pause to say more about it. It is the most interesting river in all the world; not because it is the longest, widest, or deepest, but because of its association with such wonderful events. It has three sources—viz., at Hasbeiya on Mount Hermon, at Dan, and at Banias near Caesarea Philippi. For convenience, it is divided into three sections—from Hasbeiya to Lake Merom, about forty miles; from entrance into Merom to the Sea of Galilee, fifteen miles; from the northern end of that lake to the Dead Sea, seventy-nine miles—making the direct length one hundred thirty-four miles. It runs in its course to every point of the compass and its channel is two hundred miles. It rises seventeen hundred feet above the sea level and empties into the Dead Sea thirteen hundred feet below. Thus it falls three thousand feet or an average of twenty-two feet to the mile. Sometimes it runs on very slight decline and is, therefore, quiet and fordable. Between the waters of Merom and the Sea of Galilee it falls, for about eight miles, eighty-five feet to the mile. It varies in width from eighty to one hundred eighty feet and in depth from five to twelve feet. The Jordan has been more or less connected with the events of sacred history from the patriarchs to the apostles. Its banks have been the scene of the most stupendous miracles, judgment, power, and love ever witnessed on earth. When the fire of heaven had burned up Sodom’s guilty cities and polluted plain, the waters of the Jordan rolled over them and buried them forever from the face of man. Thrice was the swollen torrent stayed and its channel divided to let God’s people and prophets pass over dry shod. Once, at the bidding of the man of God, the iron ax rose buoyant and floated upon its surface. Here the captain of the host of Syria was cleansed. Greater than these are the miracles wrought by our Savior round about the Jordan. In it he was baptized, and on its stormy banks, God acknowledged him as his beloved San. The storm-tossed billows on Galilee heard his voice, and upon the bosom of the water, he quietly walked. Sacred are the scenes and memories of this historic stream. From Jordan, we entered the great Syrian plain. Our road led us by the ruins of old Caesarea Philippi and along the side of Mount Hermon capped in snow. On and on we journeyed, passing flocks and herds of sheep, goats, and camels, in which there were thousands. Villages were observed and Syrian soldiers were beheld. About three P.M. we looked into the far distance and saw Damascus, the oldest city in the world. It is standing on the banks of the Abana and was in existence when Abraham crossed the desert on his long journey from Ur to Canaan. It has passed through many hands. Not less than twelve times has it been pillaged and burned; yet it has always risen with new beauty and greater glory. We remained in this city two nights and a day and walked along its streets, into its industries, and reviewed the sacred stories connected with its history. We had traveled over the same road as did Paul in the long ago. In fancy, we saw the great light and heard the voice of the Son of God directing him into this city where "it shall be told thee what thou must do." We entered into the street called Straight and heard Ananias at God’s command bid him to "arise, and be baptized, and wash away thy sins, calling on the name of the Lord." We saw the very spot where he was let down in a basket over the wall. From here he went into Arabia and preached the faith he had determined to destroy. Leaving Damascus, we crossed the Anti-Lebanon Mountain and visited the town of old Baalbek. Here we walked amid the ruins of the greatest temples of earth, dedicated to the gods and goddesses of ancient Rome. Our way thence led across the Lebanon Mountain, beyond which lay the city of Beyrout on the Mediterranean. The scenery all along was beautiful and rich in its relation to Bible history. From Beyrout, we passed down the coast by old Tyre and Sidon and on to Mount Carmel so prominently connected with the history of Elijah. We entered the cave where he was wont to dwell and observed the places where many incidents occurred. The way now leads east to Nazareth and here we began to retrace our journey on to Jerusalem. The half has hardly been told, but we must come home. Bidding farewell to the hills of Zion and Moriah, we came again to Alexandria, boarded the steamship "Famaka" and hastened to Piraeus, the seaport at Athens. Quite soon we were in that classic and historic city. Here we climbed the Acropolis, walked amid the ruins of the Parthenon, and ascended the old steps that lead to Mar’s Hill. Here we lingered for a time with Paul, reasoned with the ancient philosophers, heard addresses by old Demosthenes and preached Paul’s sermon in Acts 17:1-34. We secured passage on the old steamer "Katarina" and began our voyage to Marseilles, France. This led us through the Gulf of Corinth, the Straits of Messina and Bonifacio which last separates Corsica and Sardina. We boarded the train at Marseilles and traveled north through France to Calais; thence across the English Channel to Dover and to London. After tarrying one day here, Brother Douthitt took passage on the steamship "President Polk" and came home. It is hardly necessary to try to tell you how I felt when left beyond the Atlantic, where not a soul was known. I made the best of the situation, visited the scenes of London and southern England for ten days, recrossed the channel and went to Belgium; thence through Holland to Amsterdam, and from there to Berlin. Time forbids an account of these tours. I returned to Southampton and crossed the Atlantic on the Holland-American ship, the Veendam. I spent Sunday in New York, where I met with the brethren and spoke at eleven o’clock. In the afternoon I came to Washington and spoke for Brother Larimore at the night service. I reached home two days later and found that those nearest and dearest had been well and blessed by him who ever careth for us. I must thank you again and again for your presence and for your encouragement and interest in these reviews.