04. Land

Land

Mountains

1. Palestine may be regarded as a mountainous country. The mountains are the most lofty and imposing in the north, where the ridges branch off from Lebanon. To the north of the great central plain of Esdraelon, the eminences take the form of rounded hills, except towards the valley of the Jordan and its lakes, where the scenery has a stern and abrupt character, with deep ravines, tall cliffs, and numerous caverns—The principal mountains are Lebanon, Hermon, Tabor, Carmel, Ebal, and Gerizim.

2. Lebanon. The Lebanon mountains consist of two ranges, which come down, parallel to each other, from the north, and extend their southern branches into Palestine. They enclose between them an extensive valley, called in Scripture “the valley of Lebanon” (Jos 11:17), and in other books, Coele-Syria (the enclosed, or hollow Syria). The outer or western ridge, fronting the sea, into which it projects several promontories, was called Libanus by ancient writers; while to the inner, or eastern range, fronting the plains of Damascus, they gave the name of Anti-Libanus. But these distinctions are not found in the Bible, where the name Lebanon is applied to both ranges. Of the two ridges, Libanus is the loftiest; and on its highest points, and in the fissures facing the north, snow may be found all the year round. Hence the ancient inhabitants obtained the snow with which they cooled their drinks in summer (Pro 25:13). This snow is not, however, in sufficient quantity, nor does it give a sufficiently marked appearance, to account for the name of the White Mountain, which is, in Hebrew, the meaning of Lebanon. The name must rather be ascribed to the general appearance of the mountains; for they are composed of whitish limestone; and the surface, as it reflects the light, exhibits everywhere a whitish aspect. The mountains of the western Lebanon are cultivated in terraces; and this region is now, as it was formerly, full of villages and people.

3. Mount Hermon was the northern limit of the territory of Israel beyond Jordan (Deu 3:8; Deu 4:48; Jos 11:3-17; Jos 13:11), and the Psalmist speaks of it and Tabor as the representatives of all the mountains of Israel (Psa 89:12; see also Psa 133:3; Song of Solomon 4:8). This mountain is properly a prolongation of Anti-Libanus, and now bears, in Arabic, the name of Jebel-es-Sheikh, the Sheikh’s Mountain. Its top is usually stated to be 10,000 feet above the Mediterranean, and during the whole year is partially crowned with snow, or rather ice, which, as it lies in the ravines, presents the appearance of radiant stripes, around and below the summit of the mountain. This range must not be confounded with another Mount Hermon (distinguished as Little Hermon), in the plain of Esdraelon.

4. Tabor is, in many respects, the most remarkable mountain in Palestine. It stands apart and alone on the north-east border of the plain of Esdraelon, with all its fine proportions, from base to summit, displayed at one view. Seen from the south-west, it presents a semi-globular appearance; but from the north-west, it more resembles a truncated cone. Its height has been greatly over-estimated Dr. Robinson thinks that it does not exceed 1000 feet above the level of the plain. By an ancient path, which winds considerably, one may ride to the summit, where is a small oblong plain, with the foundations of ancient buildings. The view of the country from this place is very beautiful and extensive. The mountain is of limestone, which is the general rock of Palestine. The sides of the mountain are mostly covered with bushes, and woods of oak trees (ilex and aegilops), with occasionally pistachio, presenting a beautiful appearance, and affording a fine shade. This mountain is several times mentioned in the Old Testament (Jos 19:12; Jos 19:22; Jdg 4:6; Jdg 4:12; Jdg 4:14); but not in the New. It has, indeed, been said that it was the mountain on which our Lord was transfigured (Matthew 17); but this appears more than doubtful, from the fact, that the summit of Mount Tabor was then occupied by a fortified town.

Mount Carmel

5. Carmel is a mountain ridge, six or eight miles long, stretching nearly north and south from the plain of Esdraelon into the sea, where it forms the high promontory which encloses, on the south, the bay of Acre. It is composed of a whitish stone, in which flints, sometimes curiously shaped, are embedded. The height has been variously stated, but, from comparison, it appears that the elevation of the highest points is nearly equal to that of Mount Tabor. On the east is the river Kishon and the plain of Esdraelon; on the west, a small plain descending to the sea. Oaks and other trees grow abundantly on the mountain; and various wild fruits evince its ancient fertility and cultivation. Indeed, the name of Carmel means The Garden of God, or a very pleasant region. Mount Carmel is renowned in the Jewish history; and is often alluded to in the imagery of the Prophets (1Ki 18:19; 2Ki 2:25; 2Ki 4:25; Isa 29:17; Isa 32:15; Isa 35:2; Mic 7:14; Jer 48:43).

6. Mounts Ebal and Gerizim, from which the solemn blessings and curses of the Law were declared to the assembled hosts of Israel, are mountains of Samaria, in the valley between which is the city of Shechem, now called Nabulus (Deuteronomy 27; Jos 8:30-35). These mountains rise, in steep rocky precipices, from the valley on each side, apparently to the height of 800 feet. They both appear to be equally naked and sterile, although some travellers have chosen to describe Gerizim, the mountain of blessings, as fair and fruitful, and Ebal, the mountain of curses, as bare and desolate. Gerizim is on the south east, and Ebal on the north-west, side of the valley.

Plains and Valleys The principal plains of Palestine, are those of Lebanon, of the Jordan, of Jericho, of Esdraelon, and of the Coast.

1. The Plain of Lebanon may be described as a valley, being enclosed between the parallel mountain ranges of Libanus and Anti-Libanus. Although the greater part o: it must have been in Solomon’s dominion, it can scarcely be deemed to belong to Palestine Proper, but its geographical and historical connection with that country requires its introduction. This enclosed plain is the Coele-Syria of the ancients, and now bears the name of el-Bekka (the valley. It is about ninety miles in length, from north to south, by a breadth of eleven miles, nearly equal throughout, except that it widens at the northern end and narrows at the southern. This plain is, perhaps, the most rich and beautiful part of Syria. The soil is good, and the water abundant from the numerous mountain springs on each side; but the concentration of the sun’s rays renders the summer heat excessive. These are the sources of that fertility for which the valley has, in all ages, been renowned; but only a small portion is now cultivated, the rest being left in pasture to the Arab tribes.

2. The Plain of the Jordan. By this name we understand the margin of the lakes, as well as the valley watered by the river. Here the heat is still greater than in the valley of Lebanon, and, in consequence, palm trees and the fruits of more southern climes than Palestine, will grow freely wherever there is soil and water. But the latter is usually wanting, and, therefore, except on the immediate borders of the river, of the lake of Gennesareth, and of the lesser streams, the whole plain is barren and desolate; for the intense heat which causes exuberant fertility wherever there is water, consumes the plain wherever water is wanting.

3. The Plain of Jericho is but an opening or expansion in the plain of the Jordan, towards the Dead Sea. The whole expansion takes in the plains of Moab on the east side of the river, and the plains of Jericho on the west, and the breadth across is from ten to twelve miles. in fact, the plain of the Jordan is in no other part so wide. The large plain of Jericho is partly desert, but, from the abundance of water and the heat of the climate, it might be rendered highly productive; indeed, the fertility of this plain has been celebrated in every age. Josephus describes it as the most fertile tract of Judea, and calls it a “divine region.” He speaks also of its beautiful gardens, and its groves of palm trees; and his description is borne out by Scripture, in which Jericho is described as “The City of Palm Trees” (Deu 34:3; Jdg 1:16). This region also produced honey, opobalsam, the cyproso tree, (or el-henna), and myrobalanum, as well as the common fruits of the earth in prolific abundance. The Scripture adds the sycamore tree to the number of its products (Luk 19:4). Of all these productions which so distinguished the climate of Jericho, and the greater part of which it enjoyed in common with Egypt, very few now remain. Only one solitary palm tree lingers in the plain; the sycamores have altogether disappeared; the celebrated opobalsam is not known; and the myrobalanum alone appears to thrive, being probably the thorny shrub, growing wild in the plain, to which the name of zukkum is given by the present inhabitants—the modern “Balsam of Jericho” is an oil, extracted from the kernels of the green nut which it bears.

4. The Plain of Esdraelon is often mentioned in sacred history (Jdg 4:13-16; Jdg 5:19; 2Ki 23:29; Zec 12:11; Jdt 1:8) as the great battle-field of the Jewish and other nations, under the names of the Valley of Megiddo and the Valley of Jezreel; and by Josephus as the Great Plain. The convenience of its extent and situation for military action and display has, from the earliest periods of history down to our own clay, caused its surface, at certain intervals, to be moistened with the blood, and covered with the bodies, of conflicting warriors of almost every nation under heaven. This great plain, exclusive of three great arms which stretch eastward towards the valley of the Jordan, may be said to be in the form of an acute triangle, having the measure of thirteen or fourteen miles on the north, about eighteen on the east, and above twenty on the south-west. In the western portion this plain seems perfectly level, with a general declivity towards the Mediterranean; but in the east it is somewhat undulated by slight spurs and swells from the roots of the mountains: from the eastern side three great valleys go off to the valley of the Jordan. These valleys are separated by the ridges of Gilboa and Little Hermon, and that which lies between these two ridges, is the proper valley of Jezreel, which name seems to be sometimes given to the whole plain of Esdraelon. The valley of Jezreel is a deep plain, and about three miles across. Before the verdure of spring and early summer has been parched up by the heat and drought of the late summer and autumn, the view of the Great Plain is, from its fertility and beauty, very delightful. In June, yellow fields of grain, with green patches of millet and cotton interspersed, checker the landscape like a carpet. The plain itself is almost without villages, but there are several on the slopes of the enclosing hills, especially on the side of Mount Carmel.

5. The Plain of the Coast is that tract of land which extends along the coast, between the sea and the mountains. In some places, where the mountains approach the sea, this tract is interrupted by promontories and rising grounds; but, taken generally, the whole coast of Palestine may be described as an extensive plain of various breadth. Sometimes it expands into broad plains, at others it is contracted into narrow valleys. With the exception of some sandy tracts, the soil is throughout rich, and exceedingly productive. The climate is everywhere very warm, and is considered rather insalubrious as compared with the upland country. It is not mentioned by any one collective name in Scripture. The part fronting Samaria, and between Mount Carmel and Jaffa, near a rich pasture ground, was called the Valley of Sharon; and the continuation southward, between Jaffa and Gaza, was calledThe Plain, as distinguished from the hill-country of Judah.